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Food
& Other Important Things,
by Don Curto
Remembering
MMs first 20 years
Remembering MMs first 20 years
This issue celebrates twenty years of the Marquette Monthly. Two hundred
and forty months without a miss.
If you have never worked on a newspaper, daily or weekly, or on a monthly
magazine, you probably have little idea of just how difficult it is.
You might be led by the calendar to believe that a monthly is the easiest
after
all, editors and staff have a whole month to work on the publication.
Hah! Would you be wrong. In many respects, a monthly is a daily once
a month. But often it is even more difficult because a daily publication
has its staff on hand all of the days while a daily-once-a-month recruits
many of its important writers for each issue.
Writers, knowing that the publication is a monthly, almost never meet
deadlines, because, after all, it is a monthly. Can the editor fire
the writer who doesnt meet deadline? Of course, but most often
that is not a wise choice and it is this almost impossible choice that
makes editors and publishers age more quickly than normal people. So,
I say, hurrah to the two publishers the Monthly has had and to the staff
that ages with them.
There is a lot of stuff in this issue about the growth and brief history
of MM. Mary Kinnunen, founding publisher, modeled MM after the hugely
successful Ann Arbor Observer. The Monthly was, I think, a reader success
from the very first issue.
Her account elsewhere in this issue of how I came aboard is quite accurate.
The existing food column was terrible. I do detect a note of some petulance
in her comments here, though. I think it is important to note that the
Food and Other Important Things column was a readers
choice from the very beginning.
The first years of the food column were years of criticism of food establishments.
(I was even accused once of being the cause of the failure of a not
very good restaurant. Its unlikely that the column ever had that
much power, though.)
When I started the New York Deli in 1993, I had to give up the critics
job for area restaurants, of course. But people like to read criticism
and the food columns drew much comment, certainly not all of it favorable.
There was one motel owner along the US-41 strip who refused to offer
copies of the Monthly to his customers because it criticized local business,
which he felt it should not do. I was a modest investor in the Monthly
and its managing editor for some years.
The MM logotype used enlargements of the capital M key on my Olivetti
portable typewriter
a wonderfully built Italian instrument of almost
no current use that now resides at the MM Cottage. The short story contest,
with a reasonable reward to the winner, was my project, too.
We did two food studies that turned out to be great fun
for the staff and friends. The first was an attempt to select the best
pasty. Pasties were bought by a single team, coded so that we tasters
would not know where it came from and then judged by each staff person
and the results calculated.
The second so-called study was for the best pizza. You can imagine what
a mess this was. The procedure was the same as for pasties, only there
were far more pizza places than pasty purveyors, and we had boxes of
pizza all over the apartment in Marys mothers home. I dont
recall now who the winners were in each category, but I do remember
that one of the pasty producers who did not win was pretty upset.
I think I should tell you here of the most wonderful, mostly accurate
letter of criticism of my writing and that of Jeff Eaton. This letter
came neatly typed and the criticism the writer launched against us was
quite accurate and possibly needed, too. The letters killing failure
was that it was not signed.
Mary decided, and we agreed, that she should publish the letter, but
we needed to determine the writer. We began as thorough an investigation
as possible to find the writer; we went so far as to publish a request
for the writer to contact us. If the writer needed anonymity, we could
offer that only after determining who the author was. Nothing.
Even after all these years, I think it would be fun to hear from the
writer if he or she is around.
It was the purchase of the Monthly by Pat Ryan ODay that saved
its life. There is little to no doubt that the Monthly would not exist
today if this sale had not occurred. Pat came out of a publishing background
and knew how to manage a publication like the Monthly.
Shortly after the sale, I had been tipped off by one of my agents that
a number of Pats older friends and acquaintances had been urging
her to drop my column because it disturbed the restaurant status quo.
At our first meeting (we had known each other and worked together many
years before), this matter came up. I said that it was her prerogative,
but I did want to point out that I knew who was urging her to drop the
column, and I just wanted to ask if she knew how many of these friends
ever ate out.
We have, from time to time, had disagreements, of course, but never
one of such significance that we were about to part ways. I have always
tried not to infringe on her authority as publisher and she, in return,
has never attempted to interfere with my very real freedom to write
as I pleased.
Its pretty hard to get a better professional relationship than
this. I think it has taken very hard work and much restraint to guide
the Monthly as she has.
So, hurrah for another twenty years, although I suspect somewhere along
the way there will be another writer for Food and Other Important
Things.
Don Curto
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